Somewhere deep in the Dolomites, after miles of hiking through sunlit meadows and jagged alpine peaks, we stumbled upon something that felt almost too good to be true: a charming stone building nestled into the mountainside, serving cold beer, fresh pastries, hot meals, and yes—cappuccino. It was our first introduction to a rifugio, and it felt like a miracle.
As we kept hiking across northern Italy, we discovered this wasn’t a one-off experience. No matter how remote the trail, no matter how far we thought we were from civilization, there was always a refuge waiting for us. Sometimes they perched on cliffsides with jaw-dropping views; other times they sat in quiet forest clearings. But always, they were warm, welcoming, and delicious.
A rifugio (plural: rifugi) is part mountain hut, part cozy inn, part restaurant. These alpine shelters are scattered across Italy’s mountainous regions—especially the Dolomites and the Alps—offering hikers a place to rest, refuel, and often even sleep overnight. Some are rustic and simple; others have full menus, dorm-style beds, and espresso machines. And while each rifugio has its own character, they all share a spirit of hospitality that feels baked into the mountains themselves.
We found ourselves wondering: Who built these refuges? How do they get supplies all the way out here? Do the people working here live on-site or hike in every day? At Rifugio Croz dell’Altissimo, we found some clues: black-and-white photos mounted on the walls showed the original building in the 1960s, giving us a glimpse into its history and evolution.
There’s something wonderfully communal about rifugio culture. Hikers from all over the world sit together at long tables, swapping trail stories over plates of pasta and local wine. There’s a rhythm to the day: early risers set out with headlamps, midday trekkers rest in the sun, and by evening, there’s the clatter of cutlery and clinking glasses echoing against the mountains.
It’s a culture we fell in love with—and one that feels noticeably absent back home in the U.S. American hiking often celebrates solitude and self-reliance, which has its own rewards. But the idea of a warm, communal mountain rest stop? That changes the game. It adds joy, ease, and connection to the journey.
Our hikes in northern Italy weren’t just about reaching summits or checking off trails. They were about discovering these alpine sanctuaries, each one a surprise gift at the end of a long climb. Rifugi made us feel cared for, even in the wild. And that, more than anything, is what we took home with us.
