Lake Maggiore’s Borromean Islands: A Tale of Two Worlds

A day trip to Lake Maggiore’s Borromean Islands, in northwestern Italy, offers more than just stunning scenery—it offers a window into wildly different worlds. We set out to visit the Borromean Islands, drawn in by their famed beauty. But by the end of the day, it wasn’t just the grandeur that lingered in my mind—it was the striking contrast between opulence and simplicity, and what that says about how we travel. And what we value.

Our first and last stops were Isola Madre and Isola Bella, the crown jewels of the Borromeo family. These palaces are showcases of aristocratic excess: marble statues, priceless paintings, exotic gardens, chandeliered rooms frozen in time.

On Isola Bella, a white peacock strutted through the garden like it owned the place (which, to be fair, it kind of does). Each space is meticulously maintained, every detail calculated to impress. It’s the kind of place that makes your jaw drop and your camera work overtime. And yet, as I wandered through the ornate salons and immaculate hedges, I couldn’t shake a feeling of detachment. The sheer scale of luxury felt impersonal, almost overwhelming. I found myself wondering: how could anyone ever feel at home among so much grandeur? Why did a single family need all this?

Between the opulent islands that book-ended our itinerary, we ferried to Isola dei Pescatori—Fishermen’s Island. It’s the only inhabited island of the three, and word has it that some residents still practice the traditional way of life, including fishing. It was like stepping into another reality. No gilded ceilings or manicured lawns here. Instead: stone alleys draped in colorful fishing nets, battered boats bobbing gently just offshore, and at the heart of it all, the Church of San Vittore, rising above the terra cotta roofs like a quiet sentinel of daily life. The charm was unvarnished, the kind that doesn’t need placards or guided tours to explain itself. This was not a space curated for admiration, but a place where life unfolds in the open.

fishing nets hanging in an alley on Isola dei Pescatori in Lake Maggiore's Borromean Islands

The contrast was stark. On the palace islands, beauty is controlled and preserved, a story told through velvet ropes, gilded frames, and pricey entrance fees. On Isola Pescatori, beauty is incidental, woven into the rhythms of daily life—and free to explore. Both are worth experiencing, but only one made us pause, sit down, and watch the world go by without checking our watch.

Lake Maggiore’s Borromean Islands made me realize how much I’ve changed as a traveler. Years ago, I might have been more enchanted by the chandeliers and gilt-edged everything. I would have soaked up the splendor without questioning the story it was telling. But now, after having sold most of my own belongings and embracing a simpler way of moving through the world, I find myself craving something less curated. Or maybe it’s just time and perspective that have shifted what I find beautiful. These days, I’m drawn to simpler, more natural places—the ones that feel honest and grounded, shaped by the people who live there rather than by those who once ruled.

It made me wonder: when we travel, are we chasing spectacles or seeking stories? Are we filling our days with marvels, or letting moments fill us? The palaces dazzled, no doubt—but the fishermen’s island offered something deeper. Not just a glimpse of history, but a brush with everyday life. A beauty less polished, but more profound.

And that, I think, is the real view.

What kind of places resonate with you?

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