What do you get when you drop two nature lovers in the heart of Milan? After spending our first day hitting the big-name landmarks, we found ourselves craving something quieter, greener, more us. That’s how we discovered the Lake Como Greenway—a 7-mile trail along Lake Como’s western shore that weaves together charming villages, historic landmarks, and stunning natural scenery.
If you’re in Milan and looking for an easy escape into nature, let us point you an hour and a half north—to the deep blue waters and mountain-framed shoreline of Lake Como.
We only had a day, and it was our first time visiting Lake Como—so we wanted a taste of both the famous and the tucked-away, with plenty of freedom to go at our own pace. Joining a tour wasn’t our style, so we created a DIY day trip itinerary that combined scenic ferry rides with an invigorating hike along the Lake Como Greenway—and the whole thing was completely doable via public transportation.
Step 1: Train from Milan to Varenna
We caught a Trenord train from Milano Centrale to Varenna Esino (tickets were about €8 each). The ride is fast with only one stop in Monza. And if you leave early—like we did at 7:20 AM—you’ll arrive by 8:41 AM with a full day ahead.
Travel tip: With ongoing rail work in Lombardy, some routes may involve bus transfers. Ask a Trenord ticket agent to confirm your itinerary and explain any transfers. Be sure to arrive early to grab a seat.
Varenna, perched on the eastern shore of Lake Como, is a postcard-worthy village known for its charm and lakeside paths. If you’re staying here longer, you might enjoy hiking the nearby Greenway of the Patriarchs.
Step 2: Ferry from Varenna to Bellagio
From the train station, it’s a short walk to the ferry terminal. We bought our tickets at the window—roughly €17 per adult for a flexible combo ticket that allowed us to hop from Varenna to Bellagio, then to Colonno, and finally back to Varenna from Cadenabbia.
Pro tip: Ferry tickets often appear “sold out” online, but only a portion are sold digitally. Show up early at the ferry terminal and buy in person.
We caught the 9:10 AM ferry to Bellagio, a dreamy 20-minute ride through serene waters and Alpine views. Every seat is a good one, and you’re free to walk about once you’re underway.
Exploring Bellagio
Bellagio’s cobblestone streets and lakefront cafés are just the beginning. We fueled up with cappuccinos and wandered Il Borgo, the historic district full of boutique shops and old-world charm.
We climbed the famous Salita Serbelloni, a steep cobblestone stairway lined with charming boutiques, stopped to admire the Basilica of San Giacomo, a Romanesque church from the 12th century, and then walked north toward Punta Spartivento, a scenic lookout point where a small park and stone walkways offer panoramic views of Lake Como’s three branches.
Pro tip: Grab a sandwich to-go from Da Franco Piadineria for your next leg—we ate ours on the ferry ride before the hike.
Step 3: Ferry to Colonno + Lake Como Greenway Hike
At 11:45 AM, we boarded a ferry to Colonno, which made several stops at scenic villages and delivered us to our destination by 12:38 PM. From the dock, we followed blue signs with yellow arrows, marking the Greenway del Lago, a 7-mile (11.2 km) trail tracing the lake’s western shore.
The trail took us through vibrant villages like Sala Comacina, Ossuccio, Lenno, and Tremezzo, ending in Griante. Along the way, we passed olive groves, historic villas, parks, and flower-lined paths with the melodic sound of church bells echoing in the hills.
Trail tips:
- The Lake Como Greenway is rated “moderate” by AllTrails—accessible for most fitness levels.
- Much of the path is cobblestone; wear sturdy-soled shoes.
- Bring sun protection, water bottles (there are refill fountains!), and a map or GPS offline.
We didn’t use trekking poles for this trail, but they might be helpful if you have joint sensitivities.
Final Leg: Ferry from Cadenabbia to Varenna
The trail ends in Cadenabbia, where we rewarded ourselves with gelato before catching the 4:50 PM ferry back to Varenna. Construction delays sent us on a short bus ride to Lecco, then a train back to Milan—arriving at Milano Centrale by 7:45 PM.
What We Loved
For the price of a roundtrip train ticket and a ferry pass, we had:
- A peaceful escape from the bustle of Milan
- Stunning lake and mountain views
- A taste of Italy’s slow, scenic side
- Quiet time together, outdoors
It was everything we needed—and more than we expected—from a single-day adventure.
